At the core of Alke Missalla's goldsmithing is an iconic simplicity that constantly creates fresh points of connection through clever breaks and facet cuts. Her experimental approach to the careful arrangement of basic geometric shapes oscillates between rigour and lightness, traditional craftsmanship and innovation. Each design is the result of a long-term process of exploring contemporary themes and creating an individual statement with the person wearing the jewellery.

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For whom do you design your jewellery?
Actually, I always start with myself. What is it that I am missing, what would I want or need? What should the piece of jewellery feel like? What should it do to me when I wear it? I don't have a specific person in mind. I believe that each person, regardless of gender, possesses unique beauty that can be accentuated with jewellery.

How did you start creating jewellery?
I've always had a passion for design. A reason why I began creating jewellery is that I couldn't find anything that I'd want to wear at that time. It just wasn't available. Therefore, I designed it on my own.

How do you want women and men to feel when wearing an A.M. piece?
They should feel completely themselves. The jewellery should become a part of them, connecting and bonding with them. It should make visible what they already are.

Which shapes are typical of Alke Missalla?
All variations of circle and square. I can create infinitely from these two basic geometric shapes. By developing the shapes further, leaving something out, building them up, turning them into three-dimensional versions – or by reducing them to partial forms, mere surfaces. Then I assess: What exactly do I have to do to get the respective design, the piece of jewellery to the point? How much or how little does it take in order for it to simply "be"?

Where or how do your ideas and inspirations come to you?
My inspiration always comes when my mind is at ease; when listening to music or being surrounded by nature. It takes space, time, and the ability to let go for new ideas to emerge.

Do you have a specific approach to the design process?
Some designs flow naturally, and multiple variations can arise simultaneously. With other creations, I must set them aside and revisit them with a fresh perspective. My collections and pieces evolve at their own pace. I only consider them complete when they truly are.

Can you tell me something about the production process? Where do you source materials or products from?
I create and make all my jewellery in my studio at Venusberg.  I get local support for gold plating, engraving and gemstone setting. My foundry is a small business in Pforzheim. All the companies that supply me are small German businesses, mostly family-run with long-standing traditions. I've known them for over 20 years. I mostly use recycled gold and silver, and only source diamonds from legal suppliers, who often use recycled raw materials.

Apart from a great idea, what else matters for a designer's work?
For me, it’s the creative process that is most fulfilling. Making a high-quality piece of jewellery with my hands is satisfying, ensuring that the materials, size, and texture are in complete harmony at the end. My professional training as a goldsmith forms the foundation for the durability, quality, and precision of my work.

Your jewellery is very simple and pure. Which designers or architects inspire you?
I admire Mies van der Rohe's minimalistic architecture. In terms of fashion, I've always been drawn to Jil Sander for her timeless elegance and ability to reduce things to their essential elements. Additionally, I appreciate the floral photography of Karl Blossfeldt. The precise way in which he captured the decorative charm of natural things, with a focus on the specifics and arrangement, is constantly motivating to me.

If you had to name one – which one of your designed A.M. pieces are you particularly proud of?
Always the one I see on the ear, on the neck or on the hand of a wearer. For me, this is a wonderful confirmation of my work each and every time.

 

A selection of my jewellery is also available at 

Estomo
Eppendorfer Weg 74, 20259 Hamburg